© Fotoweberei & Schloß Wernigerode GmbH

Clausthal-Zellerfeld Frankenscharrnhütte

1855

The motif

Nothing here is as it once was, and yet it’s one of the most fascinating painter’s views, giving a lot to think about. Our viewpoint isn’t that of the painter but higher up and outside the right edge of the painting. Up here, on the crest of the sand heap at Hüttenkopf, there’s a seating area along the Geopark nature trail and an information board that explains this place to us. Wilhelm Ripe’s actual position was down by the B 242, roughly where today’s “Frankenscharrnhütte” bus stop is located. There’s nothing left there now except the confluence of the Innerste and Zellbach, perhaps an old mine tunnel entrance, or more hidden away, the loading ramp of the smelter station built later on.

Back in the day, the Frankenscharrn was once the largest smelting works in the entire Harz region. It processed silver and lead ores from the famous mines around Clausthal and Andreasberg, from the late Middle Ages up until 1967. Goethe had already been here on his first trip to the Harz in 1777, when the works had just received a new blast furnace. Anyone who worked in that smoke, where there wasn’t a single tree far and wide, didn’t grow old but suffered from chronic lead poisoning, “as if their insides were being torn apart by the smelter cat.” In 1822, Villefosse listed ten furnaces here for smelting lead and silver, 153 workers, 14 water wheels, and a need of 110,400 measures of charcoal. That’s why in Ripe’s painting the foreground naturally shows the delivery of the required ore and timber, as well as the removal of slag.

Clausthal-Zellerfeld, Ripe
©  Schloß Wernigerode GmbH
Wilhelm Ripe

Artist

1855

created

coloured lithograph

Sheet size 26.1 x 34.2 cm, image size 14.8 x 22.3 cm

from the collections of Schloß Wernigerode GmbH

Bürger Collection

Hiking tip

The Nature Discovery Trail Clausthal-Zellerfeld makes a circuit around the Hüttenkopf (5 kilometres, 1 hour, best starting point at the Handermann horse farm on Marie-Hedwig-Straße). On the eastern side of the Hüttenkopf, you’ll also come across the position of the draughtsman Ludwig Rohbock, who portrayed for us the peaceful Clausthal. Only on the western side of the Hüttenkopf do we stand on stamp sand heaps and look towards the valley where the Frankenscharrn smelting works smoked for centuries.

About the artist

Only one painter, Wilhelm Ripe (1818–1885), truly took a deep and heartfelt interest in mining in the Harz mountains. He came from Hahnenklee and later lived in Clausthal and Goslar as a teacher. With his art, he remained as poor as the simple miners around him. Perhaps that’s why he looked so attentively.

For comparison

Georg Siegesmund Otto Lasius, Electoral Hanoverian Land Survey, 1784, hand drawing, Berlin State Library, Sign. Kart N 25564, Sheet 146, section southwest of Zellerfeld

Clausthal-Zellerfeld, Lasius
© Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin

Maps help to orient yourself with old painters’ views, to classify what you see and to bridge long historical periods while hiking: you can recognise the confluence of the Innerste and Zellbach, the stamp sand heap on the Hüttenkopf (then called Hütten-Berg), the many stamping works down in the valley and, of course, the Frankenscharrnhütte.

Johann Poppel after Ludwig Rohbock, View of Clausthal from the southwest, 1854, steel engraving, image size 15.8 x 10 cm, from: Original Views of the Principal Cities in Germany, of their Most Important Cathedrals, 

Clausthal-Zellerfeld, Rohbock
© Schloß Wernigerode GmbH

Churches and Other Architectural Monuments of Ancient and Modern Times, edited by Gustav Georg Lange in Darmstadt (1854), Vol. 11, from the Collections of Schloss Wernigerode GmbH, Bürger Collection

Unlike on the western side of the Hüttenkopf, here on its eastern side we stand on naturally formed ground. Our location is one of the stations along the Geopark Nature Experience Trail Clausthal-Zellerfeld. Around 170 years ago, Ludwig Rohbock stood roughly here and looked out over Clausthal. We can compare. Not the hay harvest in the foreground and the approaching rain, but the town with the largest wooden church in Europe and the town hall in front of the church, as well as the Brocken peak shrouded in clouds, since it often rains here in the western Harz.