© Fotoweberei & Schloß Wernigerode GmbH

Regenstein from the Southwest

1887

The motif

With the painter’s vantage point at Bastion Scharfe Ecke, we have taken up the most common Regenstein view, although only about a third of the many depictions chose it. Maybe Regenstein is the unknown favourite among the painters’ viewpoints. The wall of the impressive sandstone cone drops 80 metres, with a castle perched on top. It was turned into a fortress from 1671 onwards, but during the Seven Years’ War in February 1758 it was thoroughly demolished by the Prussians. The powder magazine exploded during the process. Since that time, the violence inflicted on the mountain and its stubborn resilience have been part of the fascination with the ruins of Regenstein that still lives on today.

At the end of the 18th century, the preferred view was from the valley, where the rock appears as a broad cylinder. The Romantic painters with experience in Italy saw in the treeless hilly landscape lying in the Harz rain shadow a kind of German Campagna: red-brown burnt grass, violet heather, and white sand – with the blue sky above. The Papenberge, Heimburg, and Ziegenberg also became subjects for artists. The realism of the Weimar school of painters discovered, at the end of the 19th century, the rain-soaked rock with its brown-green mosses and the snow under the leaden sky above.
The painter and journalist Rudolf Cronau had a special idea for his Regenstein painting. In the foreground on the right, he invents a rock that doesn’t actually exist.

Der Regenstein im Harz von Cronau
© wikimedia
Kaeseberg & Oertel after Rudolf Cronau

Artist

1887

created

“The Garden Arbor”

from wood engraving

Hiking tip

Of course, the exploration has to start with a visit to the castle and fortress ruins of Regenstein. Outside the museum that requires an entrance fee, and also reachable by a footpath, lies the Scharfe Ecke. A longer walk to the sandstone caves at Heers (stamp site of the Harz Hiking Badge) or into the Papenberge is highly recommended. It’s easy to imagine that where today a monotonous pine forest surrounds the Regenstein, an open, sparsely wooded pasture landscape dominated the area until the Second World War.

About the artist

Rudolf Cronau (1855–1939) combined the reporter and the painter in one person. As a young artist, he began in 1872 creating illustrations for the Leipzig magazine “Die Gartenlaube”. It was the first weekly illustrated magazine, sold in the then incredible number of over 300,000 copies, and correspondingly cost only a few pennies. It became Cronau’s most important employer, almost his playground. He moved from Düsseldorf to Leipzig, but as early as 1881 he set out for America for the first time. From then on, that became his main subject of reporting — from his encounter with the Native American chief Sitting Bull, from noble German settlers, or from the giant sequoias in California. He heightened a subject such as the local Regenstein with the lightning of a thunderstorm. In the foreground, an old woman feels her way along a rock, which, by the way, is Cronau’s invention. His text for the picture begins fittingly sensational: “In immense, threatening masses a partly wooded, partly wildly rugged block of rock rises at the northern edge of the Harz, dominating the whole region between Halberstadt and Quedlinburg — the Regenstein.”

For comparison

Max Merker, The Regenstein from the Southwest, 1885, oil on cardboard, 46.5 x 70.5 cm, Mehlis GmbH Auction House

Regenstein, Merker
© Auktionshaus Mehlis GmbH, Foto: Falk Blum

Max Merker (1862–1928) was born in Weimar and grew up during the heyday of the Weimar School of Painting, known for its impressionist and realist landscape art under Theodor Hagen (1842–1919). He painted the Regenstein, the Devil’s Wall and the Papenberg in ever new variations, returning here again and again. He preferred autumn and its subdued mood. A gentle melancholy runs through his paintings.

Friedrich Kallmorgen, Rocks at Regenstein, 1881, oil on plywood, 40.6 x 57.6 cm, Schloß Wernigerode GmbH, inv. no. Ge 000123, on view in the permanent exhibition 

 Regenstein, Kallmorgen
© Schloß Wernigerode GmbH

Friedrich Kallmorgen (1856–1924) was a cosmopolitan artist who travelled across Europe and took part in every exhibition. No wonder, since he came from a Hamburg merchant family. He soaked up impressions everywhere, first at the academies in Düsseldorf and Karlsruhe, then in Berlin, and later in France, Belgium, and the Netherlands. In character, he was the opposite of the quiet, sensitive Max Merker from Weimar, who was only a few years younger. In 1901, Kallmorgen succeeded Eugen Bracht as professor in Berlin. This painting of a rock near Regenstein, perhaps at the Großer Papenberg, was created 20 years earlier—a lively virtuoso piece by the 25‑year‑old artist, capturing the charm of a dull snowy day.