© Fotoweberei & Schloß Wernigerode GmbH

View of the Brocken over the Torfhaus Moor

1777

The motif

Anyone who climbs the Brocken from Torfhaus has, in good visibility along the boardwalk through the Torfhaus Moor, the same view that Goethe sketched here. Everything can look just as Goethe described it, if you're there at the right moment. After climbing the mountain on 10 December 1777, Goethe spent the night in Torfhaus with the forester. When he stepped outside again later that night, the moon was shining over the Brocken. The next day, in Clausthal, he recorded it from memory, as his horses and luggage had been left there—along with a large sheet of paper.

In Goethe’s time, there were fewer than 300 people up here. Today there are over 600,000. For a long time, the paths have been fenced off to manage the visitor streams. There’s no other way, as the mountain would otherwise disappear under the feet of the crowds. Off the paths, entry is strictly forbidden — this is the core zone of the National Park. This is to preserve this sensitive and magnificent place! After all, the Brocken is the highest and most popular mountain in northern Germany — a true landmark. But it’s also a water reservoir, a weather maker, and, because of its wilderness, a home to ancient legends.

Goethe’s imagination, too, was inspired by Walpurgis and the witches on the Blocksberg (the old name for the Brocken). Yet nothing could have felt more natural than this climb, even though the area had been shrouded in thick fog for days. The daring Goethe simply turned up at the forester’s early on the morning of 10 December. The forester thought the climb was impossible since visibility was less than three steps. But Goethe waited patiently and hoped. Unexpectedly, the fog lifted. It was a quarter past ten in the morning, and the forester changed his mind. By one o’clock they stood on the summit, and by nightfall they were back. On the way, Goethe discovered what Leonardo had already taught painters: shadows are coloured and change with the position of the sun — they reflect the light of their surroundings.

Torfhausmoor, Goethe
© Klassik Stiftung Weimar, Foto: Olaf Mokansky
Johann Wolfgang Goethe

Artist

1777

created

black and white chalk on paper

31 x 53 cm

Klassik Stiftung Weimar/Museums

Goethe’s possession, inv. no. GGZ/0964

Hiking tip

The Goethe Trail up the Brocken from Torfhaus is one of the most frequently walked routes in the Harz Mountains, and on fine summer days the stream of hikers never ends. How about a Brocken ascent in winter? The climb from the popular Torfhaus National Park Centre takes two and a half hours.

About the artist

Goethe’s Brocken experience

Why did the 28-year-old Goethe want so badly to climb the Brocken, why did he go through all that effort? – First of all, the whole journey was a secret escape from the demands of the court, the mining office, and from his affair with his older, married friend Charlotte von Stein, with all the inevitable misunderstandings. Then there was another special reason that Goethe wrote to his friend about: “I want to tell you (don’t tell anyone) that my journey was to the Harz, that I wished to climb the Brocken, and now, my dearest, today I’ve been up there, quite naturally, even though for the last eight days everyone assured me it was impossible. (…) I was up there today and on the Devil’s Altar I offered my dearest thanks to my God. (…) I carved a sign into the window as a testimony to my tears of joy. (…)” So, a trial of the devil. A sign for his future life, a way to deal with crises? Goethe dared the impossible to reach a state of exaltation, a kind of flow. But he was also filled with great humility before the Brocken and before nature itself, which he poured into his verses. Even today, these two conflicting feelings are familiar to everyone who trudges up there, often in bad weather and solitude, on foot.

The Torfhaus forester about Goethe’s Brocken ascent

Only 292 visitors were recorded by the Brocken innkeeper at Heinrichshöhe in 1778. So few people climbed the Brocken back then that the forester from Torfhaus still remembered Goethe’s visit years later. Five and a half years had passed when Goethe knocked again in 1783. Overloaded with offices and, for a year now, ennobled with a “von”. Duke Carl August was there too, as well as mining councillor von Trebra, who passed this account on to us in surprise because he had always thought Goethe’s report was boasting: “Well! So you have come once more to visit the Brocken in a better season of the year. Indeed! When, in the middle of winter, you demanded of me to guide you up the Brocken, you surely wouldn’t have persuaded me with all your fine words (he gave him a Louis d’or) to be your guide, if a hard crust hadn’t formed over the deep snow from such severe frost, which could carry us. But never before had a stranger asked this of me, nor would I have undertaken such a risky venture with anyone, although it went well this time, and we were back here from the peak of the uninhabited great Brocken in good time, after we had enjoyed a most rare and clear view all around.”

For comparison

Ernst Helbig, Wintry Brocken in Morning Light (Brockenglühen), around 1850, oil on canvas on cardboard, 19 x 28 cm, private collection 

 Torfhausmoor, Helbig
© Doris Derdey, Ernst Helbig

Heinrich Brandes, Cloud Study, around 1850, oil on paper, 21 x 28.8 cm, Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum Braunschweig, inv. no. ZL III/1549 

 Torfhausmoor, Brandes
©  Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum Braunschweig